An eye for detail and a shine for history

Preserving a legacy is often harder than creating one. My grandfather, Dharmendra Gandhi, always had a keen eye to collect the finest objects and jewels. He hailed from a jewellery family in Benaras, and he left the city at 20 years old in search of more opportunities. He travelled across India, studied crown jewels, royal treasuries, and decorative arts collections. It’s almost serendipitous that he took over the historic jewellery house at Mumbai’s Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, Gazdar.

Gazdar, the jewellery label that we now proudly call ours, was not handed down to him. The foundation of Gazdar’s rich heritage can be traced back to the 19th century, when Mr Jehangir Gazdar earned his stripes by dealing in rare artefacts. He embarked on globetrotting journeys in search of exquisite pieces of art. His sons, Dinshah and Rustom Gazdar, aspired to make their mark in the world of jewellery. An important client of Cartier, the Salar Jung family from Hyderabad, was instrumental in introducing Dinshah and Rustom Gazdar to Cartier. Subsequently, the Gazdar brothers received comprehensive training as goldsmiths at Cartier’s prestigious atelier in Paris, helping them launch their own workshop and retail establishment. Armed with their newfound expertise, they embarked on a remarkable venture, opening their boutique at the iconic Taj hotel in 1933, specialising in the sale of fine jewellery and exquisite works of art. This marked the birth of Gazdar.

To enhance their craft and create one-off pieces, Austrian and Sri Lankan jewellery craftsmen were employed along with Indian jewellery artisans in the state-of-the-art manufacturing facility. As business continued to thrive in the 1970s, and sourcing exceptional pieces grew more challenging, Mr Gazdar sought the support of my grandfather, who he had met over the years. For my grandfather, Mr Gazdar was a father figure, mentor and his role model. Mr Gazdar also recognised the same passion in my grandfather that he had nurtured over the years. Upon his passing, Mr Gazdar’s wish was for my family to assume control of the business, cementing a legacy of excellence in jewellery craftsmanship and artistry.

A very significant milestone for our brand was in 1961 when Queen Elizabeth II had visited India as part of a state visit to strengthen diplomatic ties between the United Kingdom and India. During her stay, the Queen met with Indian leaders and attended various engagements, receptions and cultural events. In her honour, an exclusive fashion show was organised and we proudly showcased our exquisite jewels at this significant event.

The brand has been known for keeping some of the finest pieces of jewels made by man, thus attracting all the major royal families of India such as Bikaner, Kashmir, Nawanagar, Baroda, Gwalior, Patiala. However one of our most significant relationships has been with the illustrious Nizam of Hyderabad. The Nizam’s tales are renowned worldwide, particularly for their extraordinary collection of jewellery, which is unparalleled in its magnificence. In the 1970s, when the Government of India initially declined to purchase the jewels, the Nizam’s Jewellery Trust organised an international auction that attracted renowned buyers like Harry Winston, Bvlgari, Rosenthal. During this momentous event in 1978, my grandfather had the esteemed privilege of valuing these remarkable pieces in his capacity as a trusted advisor and appraiser to the Nizam Jewellery Trust.

My grandfather told me, “My first interaction with Prince Mukarram Jah, the titular Nizam of Hyderabad, was in the late 70s. I was pleasantly surprised by the collection of jewels the family possessed. The family’s collection surpassed anything I had ever seen before. One particular diamond stood out as the most unique and brilliant gem I had encountered in my entire life – the 184-carat Jacob Diamond. Even to this day, nothing compares to the mesmerising beauty of that extraordinary stone. The collection also boasted of numerous rare emeralds and exquisitely crafted enamelled jewels.” However, with the intervention of the Government and the Supreme Court, the auction was cancelled. After years of negotiations and discussions, eventually, in 1995, the government decided to purchase these invaluable pieces, recognising their significance to the nation's heritage and culture.

Our exquisite creations have garnered global admiration, gracing the halls of prestigious auction houses renowned for their discerning selection. With a long-standing partnership with esteemed institutions like Christie’s and Sotheby’s, our pieces have found their way to their illustrious auctions. Among our remarkable achievements, the two extraordinary masterpieces – a one-of-a-kind sapphire and diamond encrusted brooch at Christie’s in 2006, and a ruby and diamond adorned wristwatch bracelet, crafted in a captivating honeycomb structure – were auctioned at Sotheby’s in 2016. Our collaborations also extended beyond these two auction houses and included Heritage, Bonhams, Phillips.

Beyond our bespoke jewellery creations, we also sought remarkable vintage jewels, treasured for their provenance and enduring artistry. Observing vintage jewels, remarkable for their vast array of forms and techniques, we captured the full splendour of the Indian jewellery tradition. It spawned from the sculptural energy of pendants, bangles, and bajubands to the vivid brilliance of Golconda diamonds, Burmese rubies, and Colombian emeralds. It contrasts the understated elegance of kundan-set flat diamonds with the radiant, intricate artistry of meenakari enameling, from champlevé florals to delicate miniature painting. The unique spirit of Indian design shines through in its nature-inspired motifs of flora and fauna. These pieces reflect the core identity of Indian ornamentation: a deep reverence for nature offering a profound narrative of India’s jewellery heritage.

As families grow larger and interests wander, division of jewellery within families becomes complicated. Sometimes bringing an independent advisor may not always be appreciated by all entities involved. In such cases, parting with these heritage pieces sometimes may seem the only option for such families.

One such time, an old Parsi family with roots in Mumbai since the early 1900s, had migrated abroad with most of their jewels locked up in the vaults of their Indian banks. Detachment from those magnificent pieces was not easy for them as they carried emotional value. As hopeful custodians of those pieces, we showcased compassion, psychology, patience, trust, and human connection. We never negotiated only for price – but also for trust. One of the pieces from that collection was a Victorian diamond starburst brooch, set with old mine/European cut diamonds capturing the celestial obsession of the 19th and 20th century. It was artfully sculpted in darkened silver over gold.

Emeralds have been cherished for centuries for their remarkable hues and rich luminosity. One does not often come across a majestic 17-carat emerald in a brooch set by the renown house Van Cleef & Arpels. Signed ‘VCA’, and with the characteristic architecture of the brooches they created, the piece consists of a sculptural arrangement of brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds in dramatic radiating lines.

While jewellery remains the cornerstone of our brand, we also curate exceptional objets d’art. We acquired this exceptional 19th century Austro-Hungarian chess set clad in enamel. A masterful union of artistry and craftsmanship, this chess set is a true collectible work of art.

Six generations of jewellery lineage, 93 years of Gazdar. While hard to preserve this legacy, what stays consistent for us is acquiring unique vintage pieces and crafting original pieces of jewellery with incomparable gemstones and diamonds. The most valuable thing my father Ravin Gandhi and I inherited was never the brand and jewellery itself, but the eye to recognise value where others only see price. In the jewellery business, stones may last forever. But reputation, trust, and wisdom are what truly endure across generations.