‘Most of the skincare in the market is either useless or detrimental’

From beauty journalist to wellness influencer to an entrepreneur. How has this journey been for you?

It’s been expansive, challenging and exciting. It has also been very humbling, because as journalists we sometimes have a unilateral view of how things work and yet think we know everything. Whether it was my blog, or books, and now entrepreneurship, with every new role there was a new set of skills to learn. It has taught me to look beyond the role of a critic and learn to build from the ground up.

Tell us why you wanted to launch your own skincare brand. Do we really need another serum? 

Just because the beauty market is crowded doesn’t mean that everything is useful. I would say that most of the skin care in the market useless at best and detrimental at worst. Ocean of Milk is not another serum, it is the only serum to be used for the most common type of Indian skin: mature, pigmented, textured, dehydrated, troubled because of pollution and stress. It has been formulated by the number one name in in green chemistry (Krupa Koestline) and it brings together high potency actives, biotech ingredients and adaptogenic botanicals to work on multiple pathways in your skin. Just one serum solves several problems such as uneven skin tone, glycation, sagging and pigmentation.

Ocean of Milk, your first product, is a night serum that marries science and spirit. What do you mean by that?

The ‘Vas’ in Amahvas stands for Vasudha, so of course the brand is an extension of me. In my personal practices I feel deeply connected to the divine and as I built Amahvas I have been studying Indian cosmology and mythological texts. In fact, the idea of Ocean of Milk wasn’t something that I brainstormed. It came to me fully formed during a morning walk, like a download. And in 15 minutes I had the full product brief ready. It is inspired by the story of the Samudra Manthan where gods and demons got together to churn the nectar of immortality that lay at the bottom of the cosmic ocean. The 14 ingredients in this formula are each an homage to the 14 treasures that appeared out of this celestial tale. This first product gave me a framework for my brand. Going forward every product is rooted in a mythological story and built with cutting-edge science.

How is entrepreneurship treating you? 

It has been extremely transformative. I have learned how to weigh my words and only speak when it’s required. I’ve had to learn to read and handle people in a way that makes them work with harmony and loyalty to me. It has changed me as a person. I suppose that happens when you put all your savings into something, you cannot afford to be flippant or impulsive. On the other hand, it made me trust myself more. Because when I have followed my instincts, they’ve always turned out correct. Entrepreneurship began with a sense of obsession and sleepless nights but in the last two years I have learnt to work and rest with discipline. There’s still a long way to go, but I truly believe, if anyone wants to refine themselves as a person they should start a business. Because the new me barely recognises the old me.

Over the years, you’ve amassed a wealth of knowledge not just in beauty brands and skincare but overall wellness. How does this inform your product?

Within the beauty business I have covered both ends of the spectrum whether it is researching and reviving traditional recipes and rituals through my books or reviewing and critiquing the most luxurious cosmetics in the world as a beauty director. With Amahvas I bring both these worlds together. For instance, ashwagandha, which is the best herb that works against pollution, environmental damage and cortisol-related stress. I have blended it with the most bioavailable form of retinol so that you get the best of both worlds.

What can we expect when we use the Ocean of Milk? Who is this made for?

Ocean of Milk is primarily built for women who are over 35, with dull, pigmented mature skin. It is a highly potent formula that brings together 0.1% encapsulated retinaldehyde with 2.5% PHAs. Broadly speaking it has five categories of ingredients: Actives including retinal, PHAs and niacinamide; Marine ingredients such as mineral rich seawater, pearl extract, algae- derived collagen to boost radiance; Biotech ingredients such as milk peptides and ferments to re-densify the skin, balance the microbiome and reduce glycation; Adaptogenic botanicals such as ashwagandha and lotus, to protect against pollution and urban stress (the fragrance in the serum is the natural smell of ashwagandha Co2 extract);  Humectants, oils and butters to deeply moisturise. This is why I tell people that Ocean of Milk is so loaded, it shines when used alone without any other actives.

We hear you are an all-female company. Is this deliberate?

It’s not deliberate but I’ m certainly happy that it worked out this way. I’ve always said I loved working surrounded by feminine energy. So consciously, or unconsciously I was drawn to women-led businesses, be it Krupa Koestline, my formulator, my all-women team of manufacturers, the designer also happens to be my best friend, and in fact even my logistics partner is a woman. Mind you, I’m not working with them just because they happen to be women, I chose them because I knew instinctively, they would treat and build Amahvas as their own.

Your internationally sourced ingredients, your beautiful bottle, and of course your price points, all suggest this is a premium product. When do you start seeing profit?

As of now profit is not even on my mind. What we earn goes back into the business: New formulas, clinicals, stability, packaging, printing, design. I could’ve never imagined how much I love my creations and building Amahvas. It truly has been a privilege and work that I have enjoyed the most. Profit will happen for sure, but first my baby needs to grow up.